Back in 2019, I reviewed and awarded considerable praise to W. B. Saffell, a curious new entry in Campari’s Whiskey Barons Collection. Looking back, it seems the series failed to appeal to a majority of whiskey enthusiasts, at least initially. I suppose some of that indifference stemmed from the fact that neither Jimmy nor Eddie Russell were involved with the first two releases, Old Ripy and Bond & Lillard Batch 1. There was also the hefty suggested retail price. At $50 for a 375ml (in 2017) they were a tough sell, and still are for some. 

Then came Bond & Lillard Batch 2 and W. B. Saffell, of which Master Distiller Eddie Russell was directly involved in the curation and blending. Truthfully, one could tell, as the profile for Bond & Lillard 2 was a notable step up from its predecessor. As for W. B. Saffell, as stated in my aforementioned review, it “should’ve had a Turkey on it.” Unlike the 2017 expressions, W. B. Saffell surprised fans with layers of depth and complexity – so much so, the price was no longer a source of great concern. In fact, many enthusiasts (myself included) viewed Saffell as a $100 limited edition if purchased as two 375ml bottles. Taking the “limited edition” on the label at its word, I purchased several bottles for future consumption and that was that. 

Over the past few years I’ve seen newer bottlings of W. B. Saffell pop up on liquor store shelves and social media – most recently, with a redesigned bottle and label (sans “Batch 1”). Until last month, I felt no push to buy another as I still have bottles from the original release in my cabinet. But then, there’s always that question that lingers in my head … “Is today’s W. B. Saffell the same as yesterday’s W. B. Saffell?” Thanks to the generosity of a friend we’ll soon find out.

Campari Whiskey Barons Collection – W. B. Saffell (2023)

Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Proof: 107

Age: Not stated (reportedly a blend of 6-12-year whiskey)

Misc.: Distilled and bottled by The American Medicinal Spirits Co. (produced at the Wild Turkey Distillery), Lawrenceburg, KY

Tasted neat in a Glencairn after a few minutes rest …

Color: rich amber

Nose: caramel, honey, toasted oak, graham cracker, confectioners sugar, hints of orange bitters

Taste: vanilla glaze, butter toffee, peppery oak, cinnamon powder, nutmeg, faint clove

Finish: medium-long w/ diet cream soda, flame-kissed citrus, cedar-esque oak, dry spice, white pepper

Overall: I’ll start by saying this isn’t the W. B. Saffell profile from 2018-2019. If you’re expecting those notes from a current bottling, you might find yourself disappointed. That said, there’s plenty of Wild Turkey character to appreciate – at least with this 2023 iteration. While the original 2018-2019 Saffell has a very “Camp Nelson forward” profile, with darker notes like burnt caramel, molasses, and ginger beer, this 2023 bottling is primarily composed of “core Turkey” notes like vanilla, oak, baking spice, and citrus. It’s definitely a notch above Wild Turkey 101 and Russell’s Reserve 10-Year (excluding LL/ME). Hell, today’s Saffell might even outperform single-barrel expressions like Kentucky Spirit and Russell’s Reserve Single Barrel Bourbon (barrel depending); however, one must consider the price/volume ratio. 

Just last week I was in Lawrenceburg, KY for the release of the highly anticipated domestic return of Wild Turkey 101 8-Year. I had a chance to try it, and while I don’t have formal tasting notes on hand to compare, I’m confident enough to state that it’s as good or better than this 2023 W. B. Saffell. With Saffell at $50/375ml and the new 101/8 at $50/750ml, the choice is a no-brainer. Granted, I haven’t tried the 2024-2025 releases of Saffell, but unless those bottlings harken back to the 2018-2019 profile I just don’t see Saffell being worth the investment in 2025. Sure, it sports a cool label and a neat story, but so do countless other whiskeys. If you’re buying to consume, which I’d argue most folks reading this review are, you’re better off with Wild Turkey 101/8. 

In closing, 2023’s W. B. Saffell simply doesn’t measure up to the profile that brought it acclaim. It’s undoubtedly good bourbon, and there’s something to be said for that, but at $50 for a 375ml bottle there are much better values in the Wild Turkey catalog. From Rare Breed to Russell’s Reserve private barrel selections, I just can’t think of a reason to purchase W. B. Saffell outside of a novelty or potential collector’s item. If Campari plans to continue this expression, I’d advocate for a price drop. Perhaps if it were $30-$35 it might find a larger audience. As is, I just don’t see it finding mass-market appeal. Alternatively, increasing the quality of whiskey going into the batches is always an option, but then I’d only have to repeat myself by saying, “It should’ve had a Turkey on it.”

dj

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